Week 12 Summary: Into Pakistan

Mon 8^th Oct – Amritsar & The Golden Temple

The highlight of a visit to Amritsar would undoubtedly be a visit to the holiest of Sikh pilgrimage places, the Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib). The 9^th of Oct was also the birthday of the 4^th Sikh Guru, Guru Ram Das. He was the one who designed the Golden Temple way back in the 16^th century.

So you can imagine the celebrations that were taking place on this day. There were scores of performing schoolchildren and people who were making their way around the temple grounds. Each Sikh would try to make their way to the temple once in their lives and spend a week or so volunteering and offering prayers. The site is inclusive, so foreigners are allowed to eat at the communal kitchen, stay in the dorms and partake in the general celebrations.

In the afternoon I went to the border closing ceremony. I was expecting something serious, like a parade with salutes and marching, like those we see on tv during National Day. But what we saw instead was a festival. The locals run up and down the road patriotically waving their Indian flag. More locals dancing the bhangra on the road. And when the border ceremony proper started, the guards' movements were so exaggerated that it became comical. They were all serious about it though, similarly at the Pakistan side. Every movement, high kick and adjustment of the headdress would be met by a chorus of cheers. Definitely worth the visit

From India side, there are shared minibuses that take you from Amritsar straight to the border (100 indian rupees return). From Pakistan side, take a bus (104 or 105) from Regal Chowk to train Station (10 Pakistani Rp), change to Bus No.4 to Jallo (30 Pakistani Rp), and from Jallo take a 6km autorickshaw ride to the border. Or just hail an autorickshaw at Regal Chowk.

Tue 9^th Oct – Lahore

Crossing over to Lahore, I met up the two Japanese again at the bus s! tation. We decided to travel up to Lahore together. The border crossing was simple and painless.

The bus ride to the border though, was altogether more interesting.  There was an altercation between a local youth and a Sikh man who took offence to the young guy's manner. The argument almost grew to an all-out brawl in the bus with most of the passengers taking sides with the youth. We huddled in the rear of the bus and tried our best to ignore the proceedings. At one point, somehow a guy on a motorbike on the road WITH A BIG WOODEN PLANK got involved and boarded the bus at the front entrance and chased the boy out the back entrance! It was mental. And all this time, the bus was still moving! Finally, the scene ended when they spotted a policeman by the side of the road and the two got off, accompanied by all the 'witnesses' who were involved.

Lahore on the other hand, was a much more staid affair. I stayed at Regale Internet Inn, and recommend it to everyone.

Wed 10^th Oct – Lahore Fort

Lahore has many sights, being one of the capitals of the Mughal empire. I hiked through the old city to see the Lal Qilah (Lahore Fort) and the impressive Badshahi Mosque. Both were Mughal built, similar to those in Agra and Delhi. The fort was in its original state of disrepair, unlike the renovated ones in India. Which was good in a way, since I could then imagine the domes and walls in their past glory, looking at the peeling plasters. Unfortunately, vandals had carved and scribbled onto some parts of the walls. Badshahi Mosque was the city's big mosque, actively used and in a better state of repair. I actually liked it better than the Jama Masjid in Delhi.

Besides the fort, I made the acquaintance of some locals, and ended up visiting the Minar Pakistan, a tower commemorating the Partition, with them. Bizarrely, I also went swinging on a swing, and bumper car riding with them!

Then there was the Japanese chef staying in my dorm who owns a Briya! ni restau! rant back in Japan. He cooked Briyani for everyone in the inn.

And to cap off an eventful day, I got a FB message from a friend who happened to be in Lahore. We met and had dinner, courtesy of his local host, at one of the two rooftop restaurants that overlook the mosque and fort.

Thu 11^th Oct – Lahore Museum

The Lahore Museum has several impressive collections of note. The main attraction for me was the Gandharan art section, which showcases various Buddha figures, and many pieces that detailed events in the life of Buddha. Other sections of interest were a collection of ancient coins, and some pieces from the early civilisations regions of Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro.

Fri 12^th Oct – To Gilgit

Gilgit in the north is halfway up the Karakoram Highway, and a full 24 hour journey. From Rawalpindi. I started the day in Lahore, and had to make the additional 6 hour bus ride from Lahore to Rawalpindi.

Hence the entire day was spent travelling. The bus north was on the NATCO (Northern Areas Government Transport Company) bus. This journey took so long because the terrain was mountainous, uphill and cut through the unsafe Kohistan area. Because of potential attacks on buses, (and there was one incident back in April where rebels got everyone to get off the bus, checked the locals' identification, and shot anyone who was a Shia), all vehicles had to travel in convoy. There was a long waiting period where buses would stop, and gather, before making the trip north.

If you are looking at your KKH map. The buses start off in Rawalpindi. Going northwards, they makes a stop at Besham. Thereafter, the buses go past Kohistan district, not stopping until they reach Chilas. From Chilas to Gilgit, the way is safe. If nothing else, this info could be useful in helping to plan your toilet breaks. Expect to get off to register your names at various checkpoints on the way.

Sat 13^th Oct – Reached Gilgit

! We reached Gilgit just before dark. The Madina Guesthouse is a good place to stay (dorms 250 Rp) and there's an Internet café in-house to use. It was too dark to get anything done, the sun sets at 6.30pm in Pakistan. Tomorrow I'll explore.

Sun 14^th Oct – Kargah Buddha

There's a carving of 7^th century Buddha into the rocks, known as the Kargah Buddha, after the area in which it was found. Getting there was not easy, but I had company. One of the Madina guesthouse staff's family members was around and had the Sunday off, so he accompanied me. We had fun, scampering up cliffs and rocks (which on hindsight, was actually very dangerous!) to get to the Buddha.

Read More @ Source

Around The World on a Motorbike: Rene Cormier - Motorbikes, Mao and a Yak

While we were at the Vancouver Motorcycle Expo we ran into Rene Cormier, crazy adventurer who spent 5 years riding around the world on his BMW motorbike. He travelled 155000km across most of the planet. In June 2009 we'll be setting off on our own adventure, from Lhasa to Shanghai, some 8000km across China and film a documentary about the trip - Motorbikes, Mao and a Yak. We will take the road that Chairman Mao took in the Long March of 1934, and travel from the heart of the Himalayas through the deserts of Mongolia and into the highrises of modern China. Motorbikes, Mao and a Yak will capture the personal growth of these four characters and their changes in attitude towards each other, Tibet, China, religion, business, and life on the road. The film brings to light the role that youth play in China today - shifting the norms of traditional Chinese society and China under Mao to shape China in the 21st century.

Video Rating: 5 / 5