Dali Courtyard: Discreet, Delightful & Delicious Yunnan

Posted: December 29th, 2012 | | Foodies & Dining Scene | Ai Mo Town, CityWeekend, Dali 2, Dali Courtyard, Gulou, Guloudongdajie, hutong, Middle 8, New York Times, Southern Barbarian, theBeijinger, Time Out, TIME Travel, Travel + Leisure, Yun Er Town 云洱小镇, Yunnan Cuisine | No Comments »

Dali Courtyard's Discreet Entrance

A classic Yunnan favorite, Dali Courtyard is a restaurant so popular in the warm summer months that you can't count on walking in without a reservation, a lesson I've learned well.

It's a trusted restaurant among the local foreign community with a reputation to serve consistently tasty and authentic Yunnan cuisine in a charming little courtyard nestled in the hutongs.

But I was surprised to find it rather quiet in my most recent visit a few weeks back.  I was convinced that hoards of hungry diners would all arrive any moment, but they never came.  In one entire evening, there were a total of about 10 other people in the entire restaurant.  Needless to say, it was too cold to sit outside in the courtyard (which is covered up with a temporary roof in winter months), but there were hardly any other diners even in the cozy indoor spaces.

Surprising it was so quiet, but none of this matters when you step inside for the first time.

I still remember how amazed I was when I first walked into Dali's twinkling courtyard with glowing bulb lights surrounding the space.  It's almost magical, especially when you have no idea what to expect after walking through dark, mysterious hutongs.

LDS Snapshots of Dali Courtyard's Magical Ambiance: 

Enchanting Center Courtyard

Dali is one of my go-to restaurants for out-of-town guests who prefer something a little hidden, memorable and a little off the beaten path.  That being said, enough travel guides have written about Dali enough to make it quite a popular destination among visiting tourists.  Makes sense since the hassle of ordering is eliminated with a daily set chef's menu that strictly prix fixe with anywhere from 8-12 dishes that come out per table depending on the number of people in your dinner party.  The standard menu is set at RMB 128 per person (old price was RMB 100, which has since been bumped up to RMB 128, but there are also RMB 200 and RMB 300 menus if you're feeling a little fancy).

My last visit was just two of us and we were served 8 dishes, which was more than I had expected. 8 dishes for two people is more than generous and gave a really well-rounded overall impression of how awesome Yunnan food can be.

And don't be afraid to try Dali's Signature Cocktail (RMB 28) – a refreshing drink made with Chinese Baijiu liquor, mint lemon and Sprite soda.

With this cocktail and some local Yunnan beer, our total bill was less than RMB 300 for two. Such a sweet deal.

Dali Courtyard Signature Cocktail with Chinese Baijiu, Mint, Lemon and Sprite (RMB 28)

LumDimSum Snapshots of Dali Courtyard's Set Menu:

Cold Tofu and Mint AppetizerCold Wild Mushroom AppetizerClear Mushroom Broth SoupFresh Shrimp CurryGrilled Whole Fish Yunnan Style Stir-fried Mushrooms in Banana LeafStir-fry Leafy GreensChicken and Roasted Cashew Stir-fry

Yunnan Spread at Dali

Dali really does make me look so good as a host – our dining experience was as impressive as ever.

The spread of food is more than generous and the quality and taste totally lived up to my expectations (from a countless number of previous meals over the years) and my guest was delighted to be introduced to such a hidden gem of a restaurant.

I was worried my guest wouldn't be brave enough to try all the dishes that were brought out, but thanks to the lovely presentation of each dish, he was more adventurous than most first-time visitors to China and I think he even surprised himself by how much he enjoyed it all.

And as much as I like to praise Dali, I also agree that there are more authentic Yunnan restaurants that are not so pricey (you can probably eat plenty for RMB 120-150 for two people at other Yunnan hot spots like my dear Ai Mo Town or Middle 8), but the overall ambiance and experience at Dali Courtyard keeps this spot at the top of my list for out-of-town visitors who you have only one chance to impress. But if you're just looking for a quick bite to satisfy your Yunnan cravings, I'd recommend Ai Mo, Yun Er Town or maybe even the new Southern Barbarian (a popular restaurant chain from Shanghai).

Click here for an even more intimate/quiet ambiance at the new sister restaurant, Dali 2 just a little further north up the alleyway off Guloudongdajie.

Dali Courtyard Contact Details: 

  • Address: 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, 鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号

  • Tel: 8404-1430

  • Opening Hours: 11am-2pm; 6pm-11pm

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(1) Train to Tibet

I traveled to Lhasa on the high altitude train to Tibet in June of 2007 with a small tour group of fellow Americans. This video features the train ride from Xining in western China through the mountain pass leading to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. The Chinese engineering achievements which made this train happen are formidable; the social changes the train brings to Tibet are no less so.

Video Rating: 4 / 5


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