How to eat Thailand's classic summer treat
It's khao chae season: How to eat Thailand's classic summer treat
As summer approaches, Thailand is starting to get unbearably toasty. One of the few redeeming qualities of the hot season is that restaurants all over the country will soon start serving the delicious but complicated summer dish, khao chae.
Khao chae -- which means "rice soaked in water" -- made its first appearance in the court of King Rama II as a means of relief during the hot season. In fact, Thai celebrity Chef McDang, who grew up in a Bangkok palace, argues that it's the only Thai dish that can truly be considered "royal Thai cuisine."
Khao chae was adapted from a simple Mon recipe into the complex, multi-dish variety found today. And though you don't need to be a member of high society to enjoy it, due to the elaborate process required to make the side dishes it's only widely available from mid-March until the end of April.
To help the uninitiated get a taste of this popular treat here's a quick guide to khao chae.
What is it?
There are three parts to khao chae: rice, jasmine-scented water (hence the floating flowers) and crushed ice. The rice is parboiled (boiled with its husk in tact) to keep its shape so it doesn't get mushy when immersed in water, making it chewier than regular cooked rice.
The side dishes are the real the star in this meal. Recipes vary but the essentials remain the same. Most of the sides tend to be sweet, except for one: young green peppers stuffed with minced pork, which are then drizzled in egg and fried.
Another must-have khao chae component is deep-fried kapi (shrimp paste) balls, which are rolled in ground coconut, battered and then deep-fried to perfection. This also goes well with kra-chai, or fresh Chinese ginger, which is usually served along with other fresh vegetables such as cucumber, spring onions and strips of raw mango.
Shredded sweetened pork or beef and Chinese radish (chai pow) are also important. In most khao chae sets, the radish is caramelized to shine. In older recipes, however, it usually would only be lightly stir-fried with palm sugar and eggs.
Other less common sides include boiled salted egg, pla naem (powdered dried fish meat), deep-fried red onions and sun-dried chilis stuffed with pla naem.
How to eat khao chae
Don't treat khao chae like khao tom (boiled rice soup). You'll only insult it. Khao chae is an art, not only in the preparation, but also in the feasting.
Don't heap your bowl full with rice. Add just a third, followed by just enough jasmine water to cover the rice. Only add enough ice to cool things down.
Whatever you do, don't put the side dishes into your bowl of rice. Have a little bite of your side dish, chew a bit, then follow with a spoonful of the icy rice.
Don't forget to nibble on those fresh vegetables between each side to give your tongue a break from those sugar-overloaded bites.
Where to eat khao chae
April is the month of khao chae, which means the dish will soon be available all over Thailand, from five-star hotels to small family-run Thai restaurants.
If you find yourself hooked and want to eat it all year, here are some of the best places enjoy khao chae in Bangkok in the off season.
Lai Ros
Sukhumvit Soi 49, opposite Samitvej Hospital. Open daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m. +66 (0)2 391 3193
Suan Thip
Chaengwattana Road, Pak Kret 3 Road, Nonthaburi. Open daily, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. +66 (0)2 583 3748
Baan Prachachuen
37 Prachachuen Soi 33. Open daily, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. +66 (0)2 585 1323
Article first published April 2010, updated March 2012.
Although a full-fledged Thai born and raised in Bangkok, Kitty is not your typical Thai lady.
Outspoken, sometimes with an almost gnarly in-your-face attitude, her signature is a trait that is usually frowned upon in her home country -- as shown in her brazen writing style.
Ms. Jazz Reviews: My Elephant, Sri Hartamas
Of course Thai food would come in a good 3rd Rank, and I get Thai food craving like ALL the time!
Whilst my favourite thai restaurant in KL still goes to ERAWAN (thanks to their Level 4 Tom Yum which gets me hot and cold all over) it’s good to have a change of environment, especially when Erawan is close for renovation, and is always fully booked!! Tough chance to find a place with last minute booking!
I went to My Elephant (Sri Hartamas) branch on two occasions. The restaurant setting is simple yet appearing neat and comfortable. Both occasions the restaurant is filled with patrons, surely that’s a good sign. Many of these people probably reside within the neighbourhood. I was surprise to spot a few other restaurants I’ve never noticed but looked very promising, take Isaki Japanese restaurant, for example.
To sum it up, My Elephant dishes has its hits and misses. Their spicy dishes are quite mild in my opinion, hence probably appealing to mainstream population.
Prices are very reasonable with their dishes ranging in the RM10-RM20 range, with some seafood dishes costing about RM40+, some portions however is ridiculously small.
We started off with Miaeng Kum, something to chew on whilst waiting for some late comers- Daun Kadok wraps (Betel leaves) with coconut crisps, peanuts, dried shrimp and assorted condiments topped with sweet and sour tamarind plum sauce. I never liked Miaeng Kum so I didn’t try this
My Elephant best selling soup is their Tom Som, Clear Galangal Lemongrass Lime Soup with AromaticThai herbs. Despite asking them to make sure it’s extra spicy, it turns out still quite mild to my palate. Whilst they manage a good combination of sour and spicyness, my heart still goes to Erawan (I’m sorry!)
If there’s any recommendations on My Elephant dishes, it’s their curry ranges, especially if you enjoy versions filled with creamy coconut flavours. The ones we liked was Gaeng Keow Wan (Thai Green Curry with chicken), and Gaeng Phet Yaeng (Roast Duck Curry with Lychee)
Fish was decent, while it was nothing that goes “WOW” as many has claimed. we’ve tried both the Steamed Fish with My Elephant’s signature lime-garlic-chilli padi dressings, and “Snow Fish”- Salt Baked fish with my My elephant’s signature green chilli sauce. I like the former in comparison, probably due to the sauces which has a nice tinge of sourness to it.
When Plah Meuk Yaeng (Pan-seared Squid marinated in thai soya sauce) was served, I almost had to looked for the squid. Big Plate, Small portion. I was expecting something similar to the ones I’ve had in De’ChiengMai which I liked but this one tasted a little odd to me.
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