Sabatini: A New Roman Import Finds Its Way to Shanghai
Sabatini has come from Rome to Shanghai via Hong Kong, and though it gets many things right, there are a few bits it still has to work out.
The restaurant's interior is warm enough, though it's still somewhat generic, in contrast to the modern, glass-walled spot it occupies. There is a "Rome"-ness about it all, but the place feels a bit plasticky, right down to the faux wood toilet seats. Service is slow but steady—it seems for now that they're understaffed. Fresh bread comes first, and your meal is dotted with fun amuse bouches like the duck breast with marmalade we opened with.
Sabatini serves mostly Italian classics, a few with a twist, and we started with a five-part Roman antipasti table (RMB138) that included a squid wrap / calimari entry, a lightly fried cheese ball, beef tartar with a wafer of crispy Parmesan, creamy ricotta cheese-stuffed artichoke and, most interestingly, a canteloupe puree with crispy prosciutto that's a successful textural spin on a classic. Points for effort, although not all parts hit home. The fragrant porcini mushroom soup (RMB98) is simply executed, with good depth of flavor.
Our risotto (RMB138), cooked with a generous helping of pecorino cheese with a Barolo wine sauce swirled in, was slightly overcooked and just on the edge of being soupy, and our crispy suckling pig (RMB298) was surprisingly sweet—a bit too much so for our tastes. The ricotta and pear dessert (RMB98) is another interesting take; the latter portion is marinated in liquor and, subtly and surprisingly, garlic, but the two end up matching well.
Overall, you'll get a well-made meal here with a touch of inventive flair, but its prices (including the 10 percent surcharge) bring it very near the Otto e Mezzo stratosphere, and you're not yet getting the same polish on your dining experience.
Our rating: 3.5/5
DEATILS
What: Sabatini
Where: 1/F, Wheelock Square, 1717 Nanjing Xi Lu 南京西路1717号会德丰国际广场南苑1楼
Tel: 3127-8577
Winter in Lishan park near Xian, China
Chinese street
Small furniture in a big country (near the Temple of Confucius, Beijing)
table, chair, chairs, Beijing, China, Temple, Confucius, Temple of Confucius, Hutong
Mapo Tofu/麻婆豆腐/Chinese Food, Cooking and Recipes
Rose Brand - Gourmet Chinese Egg Noodles 16 Oz.
- Chinese Egg noodles are made from wheat and eggs; the eggs add flavor, color, and body
- Use for traditional dishes such as chow mein & lo mein or more modern dishes like curry noodles
- Net Wt. 16 Oz.
Comments