Introducing Brunch at Tiffany's

by tiffanytam

Brunch at Tiffany's is a new City Weekend blog about the dating exploits of a group of Shanghai's most desirable professional women. The names used in this blog are purely fictional, but the personalities, incidents and places used are based on the author's life in Shanghai so it may not be entirely coincidental that they bear a resemblance to real people, events and venues.

Last weekend, my girlfriends and I had brunch at the stunningly beautiful Waldorf Astoria. During brunch, it struck me we could be the Joy Luck Club--except we get together for boozy brunch rather than mahjong, chat about our (lack of) relationships (even in the loose sense of the word) with men rather than mother-daughter relationships and came to Shanghai rather than San Francisco ... OK, so we're not the Joy Luck Club.

But we do remind me of mahjong, particularly with the four "directions" in the game. You'll see.

I'm from Sydney, Down Under. When I mention Aussies, you might think of surfing. It would be sexy to depict myself as a surfie chick riding the waves on Bondi Beach. But in reality, when it comes to men, I surf more like one would on the internet--sometimes I'm searching with specific criteria but mostly, I'm just browsing. And on some days, unexpected results pop up.
... like Brad.

"So, you know Brad, the really sweet guy who I had one date with a few weeks back? Well, the other night, he showed up at my door naked.” I decided to come straight out with it.
“What?!” Lily gasped, spluttering on her water. "Is that what you laowai do?" Lily is local Shanghainese. "Oh, did he come up in a trench coat and say 'ta-da!' and open up his coat when you opened the door? That happened on this show I'm watching!" Lily also watches too much American TV.

"Oh Tiffany ... " Kate laughed, unfazed. From west coast, California, Kate is just is like the wines from Napa. If you imagine a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon bursting with rich fruity flavours and a hint of zest: that's Kate. "Even I haven't had that happen to me!" And this is a girl who once went on a mission to date 50 men from 50 countries.

“No way!” Nicole exclaimed in her north London accent, with an excited glint in her eye. Wait. Has Nicole done this turn-up-naked thing herself? Nicole was set to be one of those women who have it all--a high-flying career, a devoted fiancé and kids within 2 years--until she came to China. "You're having all the fun!" But as you see, Nicole wasn't ready to settle down. "I want details! Let me take notes."

"It wasn't fun! It was traumatising!" I stated emphatically. Instantly, the girls broke into animated chatter.

"So he did flash you?!"

"This reminds me ... "

"How can a naked man presenting himself to you be traumatising?"

There's no getting out of explaining all the bizarre details of that night now…

Check back every two weeks for more from Tiffany Tam.

Phat in Shanghai: Simon’s Kitchen

I can never say no to trying a new xiao long bao spot. I heard about a place called Simon’s Test Kitchen, where Chef Zhao (formerly of Ding Tai Fung) mans the steamers. With such great experience under his belt, I had high expectations for Simon’s.

simon's kitchen shanghai china xiao long bao soup dumplings making
Simon’s is situated in a cluster of new businesses in northern Jing’An – some Hong Kong style restaurants, and funny looking cake storefront. Walk past Simon’s open kitchen and check out the chef masterfully wrapping dumplings before taking a seat upstairs in their bright and comfortable dining room.

simon's kitchen shanghai china beef tomato noodles
Simon’s menu closely resembles that of Ding Tai Fung, but with one major difference – the price! Everything is extremely affordable. We started our meal with an order of the drunken chicken in Shaoxing wine ($28RMB). The chicken was flavorful and tender, but poorly butchered, with shards of bone making the dish difficult to eat. Next up we had the signature braised beef noodle with tomato ($22RMB) – absolutely wonderful! The broth was a bit oily, but fragrant and rich. The noodles were accompanied by chunks of fork-tender brisket and tendon. Definitely try this at Simon’s, you’ll be glad you did!

simon's kitchen shanghai china xiao long bao soup dumplings
But of course, what we really came to Simon’s to try was the soup dumplings. In addition to your classic pork and crab roe + pork, Simon’s also lets you get creative. You can pick a filling (mushroom, Sichuan mala spicy pork, chicken, and sweet red bean amongst others) and the wrapper it comes in (plain, or wrappers infused with fresh-pressed beet, spinach, or carrot juice). We decided on a steamer of the hairy crab roe + pork ($29RMB for 10 pcs) and a steamer of the pork in a spinach wrapper ($21RMB for 10 pcs).

Simon’s xiao long bao are really good. Like at Ding Tai Fung, the wrapper is unbelievably thin, slightly chewy, and folded into a multitude of neat little pleats at the top. One nibble and the perfect amount of hot, flavorful soup comes gushing out. But unlike DTF, the hairy crab roe + pork buns are full of crab flavor, and the price is a steal!

But of course, the true test of a masterfully created xlb is the original pork dumpling. It should be flavorful, full of soup, a good mince, and have a strong but delicate wrapper. Simon’s pork xlb are pretty good – thin wrapper, lots of soup inside, but the texture of the pork is not quite right. Instead of being springy and resilient, the pork is minced too finely, resulting in an almost crumbly, grainy texture. The spinach wrapper was a fun addition, but don’t expect to taste the juice.

Although I still think the soup dumplings at LLF are unmatched, I’m happy to add Simon’s to my ever-growing list of xlb spots. It’s a great alternative to DTF when you have guests in town, or if you want to enjoy a basket of xlb in a comfortable atmosphere instead of perched on sticky stool at LLF.

Simon’s also delivers! I’ve got my whole office ordering from them now; the braised beef tomato noodle + sauteed spinach makes a great lunch.

Simon’s Kitchen - 小黑厨房
555 Anyuan Lu at Jiaozhou Lu
安远路555号近胶州路
+86 21 3353 3977

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