Insider Guide: What to do in Cape Town
No matter which continent, few cities sparkle as dramatically as Cape Town.How gorgeous is Cape Town?
Surrounded by ocean on three sides, with the landmark Table Mountain soaring 1,000 meters above the packed streets of the City Bowl, Cape Town rightly places high -- maybe number one -- in any ranking of the most scenic big cities on the planet.
You're never at a loss for what to do in Cape Town.
Powder-white beaches fringe the Atlantic seaboard. Trellised vineyards line historic winelands. A fynbos-covered national park is parked in the heart of the city.
Never heard of a fynbos? You haven’t lived. We can fix that.
Home to three million Capetonians, the top tourist destination in Africa feels more like a collection of idiosyncratic villages than a one-dimensional metropolis.
There’s Miami-glam on the Camps Bay strip, urban grit in up-and-coming Woodstock, genteel wine estates in the horse-centric southern 'burbs and boho-chic in the seaside boutiques of Kalk Bay.
Want to know what to do in South Africa’s “Mother City”? Keep reading.
This glam “urban resort” was built for name-dropping: Bastien Gonzalez gives mani-pedis in the spa, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s only eatery in Africa is here and local celeb-chef Reuben Riffel dishes up South African cuisine at the somewhat-cavernous Reuben’s.
If your credit card needs a good hiding, book the top-floor penthouse with its four bedrooms, 360-degree views, two swimming pools and baby grand piano. A bargain at US$12,000 a night.
Dock Road, Cape Town; + 27 21 431 5888; from US$500 a night; capetown.oneandonlyresorts.com
Located at the foot of Table Mountain, this thoroughly updated historic hotel has been a Cape Town landmark or two centuries.
The extraordinary pink exterior has earned the hotel a number of famous nicknames, “Mount Nelson Pink” and “Pink Lady" among them. It's also made her a destination for couples and romantic travelers.
Afternoon tea here is a poshy "must" for those pondering what to do in Cape Town.
76 Orange St., +27 21 483 1000; from US$690 a night; www.mountnelson.co.za
Twenty minutes from the central business district (CDB), this relaxed winelands hotel rolls out the vintage welcome mat at rates you’d expect to pay for plonk.
The winelands are what to do in Cape Town and this is the place to make home base.
Vineyards surround the hotel. There’s a winery on site making damn fine bubbly -- all just a solid eight-iron from the Steenberg Golf Club, which has one of the best golf courses in the Cape.
Tokai Road, Constantia; +27 21 713 2222; from US$270 a night; www.steenberghotel.com
The recipe is simple: wade through a mountain of red tape; hoist seven vintage Airstream trailers to a downtown rooftop; tell seven renowned artists to throw rules out the window when designing the interiors; sprinkle with city views …
From all this you get – what else? -- the country’s (world’s?) first rooftop trailer park.
Each Airstream “room” offers the usual hotel mod cons, but if you’re partial to baths -- or standing up straight -- opt for one of the equally arty rooms in the Grand Daddy hotel below.
38 Long St.; +27 21 424 7247; from US$130 a night; www.granddaddy.co.za
Restaurants
If you want to know what to do in Cape Town, start with the best.
Voted South Africa’s top chef in 2011 by restaurant bible EatOut, chef Luke Dale Roberts likes to challenge palates at his cutting-edge eatery in the trendy Biscuit Mill complex.
A sense of Asian adventure runs through the menu, making this a place for gourmands not comfort-eaters.
The restaurant’s retro-industrial decor is gritty, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t throw on your dressier clothes.
Old Biscuit Mill, 375 Albert Road, Woodstock; +27 21 447 2337; expensive; www.thetestkitchen.co.za
This historic hunting lodge on the slopes of Table Mountain is the perfect foil for the playful cuisine of chef duo Eric Bulpitt and PJ Vadas.
These kitchen cowboys aren’t afraid to experiment. Expect dishes like artichoke risotto with sweetbreads, or eland carpaccio with cranberries.
You won’t leave with much change out of R1,000 (US$132), but the excellent service and world-class cooking make it worth the splurge.
Off Kloof Road, Camps Bay; +27 21 438 4347; expensive; www.theroundhouserestaurant.com
Bizerca Bistro
Located in the unlovely bottom-end of the City Bowl, fully booked tables are a testament to the outstanding French cuisine dished up by chef Laurent Deslandes and his South African wife, Cyrillia.
Laurent’s offerings change with the seasons, but regulars would likely threaten violence if he took his signature dish off the menu. Such is the majesty of the braised pig trotter with seared scallop and drizzle of truffle oil.
Jetty Street, Foreshore; +27 21 418 0001; moderate; www.bizerca.com
This neighborhood bistro offers consistently good value, and is booked with locals almost every night of the week, always a good sign when you’re considering what to do in Cape Town.
The compact menu changes with the seasons, but look out for specials that traverse France and Italy.
There’s a lovely terrace for rare wind-free days, and fireside tables for when the Cape of Storms lives up to its name.
50 Orange St.; +27 21 424 2100; moderate; www.societi.co.za
You can’t take two steps in Cape Town without tripping over a Giorgio Nava restaurant, but this is the Italian stallion’s home base, where he lovingly folds fresh ravioli, trims the lamb raised on his own farm and presents the menu to diners in his sultry Milanese accent.
Lauded as the best Italian restaurant in the country by EatOut magazine, and we’re inclined to agree.
95 Keerom St.; +27 21 422 0765; moderate; www.95keerom.com
Even before Michelle Obama stopped in here for lunch, it was almost impossible to get a seat at Karen Dudley’s quirky deli in the newly cool Woodstock area.
The impressive salad spread (they concoct a dozen each day) and fresh “love sandwiches” draw in local creatives, while Dudley's gooey chocolate brownies almost literally fly out the door with hipsters in hot pursuit.
111 Sir Lowry Road, Woodstock; +27 21 462 2201; budget; karendudley.co.za/yummy.htm
Takumi
Hatsushiro Muraoka is grumpy, cantankerous and … the best sushi chef in the city.
He’s a local legend whose new eatery -- he left the much-loved Minato’s a few years back -- adds a touch of Japanese glamour to his perfect slivers of piscine produce.
To beef up the raw fish there’s also an exciting range of Japanese dishes, including feather-light tempura and perfectly seasoned and cooked udon noodles.
To dine here you’ll have to play by Papa-san’s most important house rule: “No wise guys.”
3 Park Road, Garden; +27 21 424 8879; moderate; www.takumi.co.za
If there’s a celeb in town, chances are you’ll find them draped over a bottle of bubbly at the Planet.
The bar describes its own “stylish celestial decor.” We’re not sure what that means but the upscale feel also makes this a perfect date spot, or just the place to start when planning a what to do in Cape Town nighttime itinerary.
The Mount Nelson Hotel may be the grande dame of Cape Town, but her naughty niece downstairs is up to all sorts of classy mischief.
Mount Nelson Hotel, 76 Orange St.; +27 21 483 1948; expensive; www.mountnelson.co.za
You could spend days driving around the Cape winelands -- or simply settle into a cozy banquette at this industrial-cool wine bar.
With 80 wines by the glass, and plenty more rarities by the bottle, you’ll likely want to get familiar with the tapas menu while choosing what to eat and deciding what to do in Cape Town.
Wine flights of three tasters are ideal if you’re the indecisive type.
199 Bree St.; +27 21 422 4084; moderate; www.frenchtoastwine.com
Previously the actual waiting room for the burger joint downstairs, this rooftop watering hole has become one of the city’s trendiest hangouts.
Tuesday nights feature up-and-coming bands, while DJs spin tunes Wednesday through Saturday.
Skinny jeans and designer T-shirts optional, but recommended.
Above Royale Eatery, 273 Long St.; +27 21 422 4536; moderate; www.royaleeatery.com
In summer, the Camps Bay strip is the place for hipster watching, and Caprice is the hottest hangout of all.
There’s food, but you’ll find a far better meal elsewhere in town. This is the place for tall cocktails, short dresses and time on the dance floor.
37 Victoria Road, Camps Bay; +27 21 438 8315; moderate; www.cafecaprice.co.za
Shopping/Attractions
Pan-African Market
This three-story consumer playground offers a mesmerizing array of curios and crafts from across Africa.
Fertility statues and wedding masks from West Africa are worth seeking out.
The friendly traders are ready for a good haggle, so don’t be afraid to bargain.
76 Long St.; +27 21 426 4478; budget to expensive; www.panafrican.co.za
The gritty Woodstock area is getting a facelift, with this high-end shopping precinct is leading the charge.
You’ll find art galleries, designer boutiques and coffee roasters, but the highlight is the Saturday morning produce market that’s become a weekend ritual for local foodies.
Arrive before 9 a.m. to avoid the crowds.
375 Albert Road, Woodstock; +27 21 447 8194; moderate to expensive; theoldbiscuitmill.co.za
If you want to experience the Cape winelands but are pressed for time, the Constantia Valley is just 20 minutes from the city and boasts some of the country’s oldest estates.
Klein Constantia and Steenberg are two of the better wineries.
Spaanschemat Road, Constantia; free tastings; www.constantiavalley.com
Yes, it’s touristy.
Yes, it can get crowded.
Yes, the incredible views from the top will leave your jaw on the ground and challenge the memory card in your camera.
Apart from slogging to the summit on foot, the cableway is the only way to soak up the panoramic views of the Mother City, so just brave the crowds and go.
Book online and you can go straight to the front of the queue.
If you do nothing else touristy, this is what to do in Cape Town.
Tafelberg Road; +27 21 424 8181; R175 (US$23) adult (round trip), R85 (US$11) children under 18 (round trip);www.tablemountain.net
Get out of the city
Had enough concrete? When you’re in Cape Town, nature is never far away.
It’s not quite Central Park, but this green lung in the center of town is well worth a visit.
Shady benches offer respite from the heat, and some of the city’s best museums and art galleries abut historic gardens. There’s a lovely tearoom, as well.
Queen Victoria Street; +27 21 400 2521; free entry
Table Mountain National Park dominates Cape Town’s skyline, and a new multi-day walking trail lets you wander this World Heritage Site.
The 88-kilometer Hoerikwaggo Trail runs from the city to Cape Point, promising spectacular views and sore legs. Shorter hiking options are also available.
Contact SA National Parks for accredited guides and operators.
+27 21 422 2816; prices vary; www.sanparks.org.za
This seafront promenade is where locals head for fresh ocean air. Jewish grannies, iPod-toting joggers and families all get along famously on this wide waterfront walkway.
Keep an eye out for regular art installations.
Off Beach Road, Sea Point. Free entry
Hit the R27 north of Cape Town and you'll soon wonder how the city disappeared so quickly.
A combination of parklands and mountains, West Coast National Park is one of the country’s largest nature preserves. It's a popular destination for adventure fans, who come for bush walks, canoeing and wild animals.
The best time to visit is in spring, when flowers carpet the hillsides, antelope graze on new shoots and whales cavort in the icy Atlantic.
R27, 100 kilometers from Cape Town; +27 22 772 2144; R44; www.sanparks.org.za
Although he is subjected to more than his share of airline food, Cape Town is the city freelance travel writer Richard Holmes calls home.
This, ladies and gentlemen, is what a beach front hotel is supposed to look like. As any advertising guru worth his online college travel marketing diploma will tell you, the secret to attracting travelers to a destination and filling hotel rooms is to embellish the goods without lying.
But don't listen to us. The great "godfather" of advertising David Ogilvy put it far more eloquently: "Never write an advertisement which you wouldn't want your family to read. You wouldn't tell lies to your own wife. Don't tell them to mine."
That doesn't mean marketers aren't averse to stretching the truth, all the while adhering to the most important rule of all: never, ever mention a destination's shortcomings.
The marketing game has spawned plenty of tricky phrases and deceptive wording that travelers can easily misinterpret.
To help sort through the fluff, we've translated some of the most common travel advertising parlance, using personal experience.
What they advertise: 'City views'
What they mean: "If you want to wake up to a panoramic vista, upgrade."
When a Hong Kong hotel website gives you a choice of a "city view" room versus "harbor view," know this: the latter is more expensive for a reason, and it's not because you're getting a bigger suite.
Book a room with a city view and chances are you're going to be staring into an apartment building 20 meters away, watching some dude clean his socks in the kitchen sink. Or, worse yet, doing things we can't write about here.
What they advertise: 'Free Continental breakfast'
What they mean: "We're going to feed you week-old croissants wrapped in cellophane and canned orange juice that'll have you reaching for antacids by noon."
While the Continental breakfast might still be viewed as a nice little travel perk for road trippers staying in budget motels on an American cross-country jaunt, in today's competitive travel industry it falls into the "why-even-bother" column.
What they advertise: 'Green season'
What they mean: "Bring an umbrella."
In countries like Thailand where there are only two seasons –- wet and not wet –- travel marketers have taken to referring to the off season as the "green" season, which usually lasts from July to September.
Green, of course, refers to the color of the foliage. All that lush leafy loveliness, growing beautifully because of the daily downpours you're going to have to deal with if you decide to trek through the jungles of northern Thailand during this period.
What they advertise: 'Two-minute drive. 10-minute walk'
What they mean: "Multiply whatever number we say by five."
What they advertise: 'All-inclusive'
What they mean: "Watered down drinks, fatty foods served in a trough and bad service."
North Americans love to escape the winter chill by spending a week in Mexico doing nothing but getting drunk and lying by the pool drinking "free" cocktails and draught beer as part of their all-inclusive hotel packages.
In all but a few of these resorts, the food is wretched and the staff complacent. We once had a maid in Cancun who refused to refill the toilet paper until we started leaving her a few dollars on the night stand every morning.
But don't worry. You won't notice any of this because you'll be too busy trying to get your money's worth by consuming as many weak margaritas as you possibly can. (Language tip: "Tresaca" is Spanish for hangover.)
What they advertise: 'Centrally located'
What they mean: "You won't get to sleep till 6 a.m. once the drunkards have passed out and you'll be woken again at 7 a.m. by buses and taxis honking."
What they advertise: 'Steps away from the beach'
What they mean: "You're going have to hoof it 10 blocks before you even catch a glimpse of sand."
If it was on the beach, the hotel website would say, in 70-point letters, "Right smack on the sand. So close to the sea you can smell the fish."
What they advertise: 'Wi-Fi available'
What they mean: "We're going to charge you a ridiculous rate to use the Internet in your room. And yes, we know it should be free. We don't care."
Again, the reality is in what's not being said. If Wi-Fi is free, they'll always say it's free on their website. Always.
What they advertise: 'Perfect for business travelers'
What they mean: "Our rooms have a bed, a sink and a toilet, perfect for those so exhausted from attending conferences all day that they just come in and pass out. But you're going to love our selection of plug sockets."
What they advertise: 'Boutique'
What they mean: "Small and overpriced. A glorified guest house with no swimming pool. But our decor is nice!"
What they advertise: 'Off the beaten track'
What they mean: "We're far from everything. If you want to find this hotel you need to pay us more money for an airport transfer."
If enjoying the local dining and drinking scene is important to you, avoid resorts that brag about their distance from civilization.
If seclusion is indeed what you're after, make sure the hotel's facilities are in line with your expectations because you're going to be spending most of your time there.
What they advertise: 'Deluxe room'
What they mean: "This is the baseline room. Similar to the Tall at Starbucks. Rather than call it what it is -- the smallest, cheapest room -- we're giving it a fancy name so you don't feel sad that you can't afford one of our nicer suites."
Got any more? Share them with us in thesection below.
China Travel
Travel Beijing, China 2012 - Illustrated Guide, Phrasebook and Maps. (Mobi Travel)
This guide is designed for optimal navigation on eReaders, smartphones, and other mobile electronic devices. It is indexed alphabetically and by category, making it easier to access individual articles. Articles feature information about attractions, landmarks, districts, transportation, cultural venues, dining, history and much more. Addresses, telephones, hours of operation and admissions information are included. The guide is complemented by clearly marked maps that are linked to city attractions. An interlinked phrasebook as well as a pronunciation guide are included.This travel guide also features an itinerary with our suggestions for your travel route. Itineraries include links to individual attraction articles.
NEW FEATURE: The attraction articles now include links to Google Maps. On a dedicated electronic reader with a slow connection and a primitive browser, Google Maps will display the attraction on the map along with metro stations, roads, and nearby attractions. On an internet-enabled device such as the iPhone and the iPad, Google Maps will even show you the route from your current location to the attraction you want to go to.
With this travel guide you can turn some eReaders into audio guides. For example, on the Kindle, just open an article and click Shift+SYM to activate text-to-speech. Put the speaker on the back of the Kindle against your ear and enjoy your virtual travel companion. Press Spacebar to pause/resume text-to-speech.
All travel guides in the Mobi Travel series are only .99 or less. Search for any title: enter mobi (short for MobileReference) and a keyword; for example: mobi Paris.
Table of Contents:
Essentials: Mandarin Phrasebook | Cantonese Phrasebook | Eat | Drink | Sleep | Respect | Cope | Stay healthy | Stay Safe | Driving in China | Units Conversion
1. General: History | Politics | Economy | Demographics | Climate
2. Maps: Central Beijing | Districts | Forbidden City | Shijingshan! Distric t | Subway | Fortifications | Great Wall | China
3. Transport: Get in | Get around | Ring Roads | Railway | Subway
4. By Area: Geography | Districts | Streets & Squares | Get out
5. Attractions: Top 10 | Itinerary | Do | Buy | Museums | Buildings & Structures | Parks & Gardens | Forbidden City | Great Wall
6. Culture: Architecture | Music Venues | Education
7. China: Do & See | Buy | ContactThis guide is designed for optimal navigation on eReaders, smartphones, and other mobile electronic devices. It is indexed alphabetically and by category, making it easier to access individual articles. Articles feature information about attractions, landmarks, districts, transportation, cultural venues, dining, history and much more. Addresses, telephones, hours of operation and admissions information are included. The guide is complemented by clearly marked maps that are linked to city attractions. An interlinked phrasebook as well as a pronunciation guide are included.
This travel guide also features an itinerary with our suggestions for your travel route. Itineraries include links to individual attraction articles.
NEW FEATURE: The attraction articles now include links to Google Maps. On a dedicated electronic reader with a slow connection and a primitive browser, Google Maps will display the attraction on the map along with metro stations, roads, and nearby attractions. On an internet-enabled device such as the iPhone and the iPad, Google Maps will even show you the route from your current location to the attraction you want to go to.
With this travel guide you can turn some eReaders into audio guides. For example, on the Kindle, just open an article and click Shift+SYM to activate text-to-speech. Put the speaker on the back of the Kindle against your ear and enjoy your virtual travel companion. Press Spacebar to pause/resume text-to-speech.
All travel guides in the Mobi Travel series are only .99 or less. Search for any title: en! ter mobi (short for MobileReference) and a keyword; for example: mobi Paris.
Table of Contents:
Essentials: Mandarin Phrasebook | Cantonese Phrasebook | Eat | Drink | Sleep | Respect | Cope | Stay healthy | Stay Safe | Driving in China | Units Conversion
1. General: History | Politics | Economy | Demographics | Climate
2. Maps: Central Beijing | Districts | Forbidden City | Shijingshan District | Subway | Fortifications | Great Wall | China
3. Transport: Get in | Get around | Ring Roads | Railway | Subway
4. By Area: Geography | Districts | Streets & Squares | Get out
5. Attractions: Top 10 | Itinerary | Do | Buy | Museums | Buildings & Structures | Parks & Gardens | Forbidden City | Great Wall
6. Culture: Architecture | Music Venues | Education
7. China: Do & See | Buy | Contact
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