Al Safir: Arabian Nights

by siennapc

There's no getting around the fact that Al Safir is a hole in the wall. But the divey venue belies a standard of food that is rare for Beijing's Middle Eastern restaurants and left us truly impressed.

The place is run by two veterans of the Beijing restaurant scene, with a manager who worked at Alsafa and then co-owned Alameen, and a Palestinian-Jordanian chef who used to head the kitchen at The Village restaurant near Yabao Lu.

The falafel is the best we've had in Beijing, though we much prefer the standard ones (¥20 for six) to the spicy kind (¥30). The Fattah hummus (¥45) is served warm, mixed with bread, pine nuts, chickpeas and roasted almond slices. The taste is rich and slightly tart. The mouttabel (¥20) is solid, with a great tahini flavor.

Unlike most Arabic restaurants in Beijing, Al Safir offers a good selection of main dishes beyond the general kebab assortment. We tried the kabsa (¥50), a delicious spiced rice dish that comes with a choice of chicken or lamb. Cardamom infuses the dish, and pine nuts and almond slices add to the invigorating flavor. It's served with a spicy tomato sauce and wonderful plain yogurt. You shouldn't leave without trying the basbousa (¥20), a traditional semolina cake. This version is the best we've ever tried, with an excellent crisp exterior, juicy interior and good presentation.

There are only four tiny tables in the yellow restaurant, and no bathroom. The outdoor seating area is more spacious, but you can expect to be serenaded with the sound of motorcycles and the crowds from the other restaurants along the strip. It's certainly humble beginnings, but with food this good, we hope it won't be long until Al Safir can expand.

Our rating: 4/5 stars

DETAILS

What: Al Safir

Where: 35 Xiaoyun Lu Courtyard, 霄云路35号院

Tel: 5130-4243

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