Haney Restaurant: Like a Vacation in Yunnan

BEIJING

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This laid-back eatery serves up Yunnanese that’s so authentic, you’ll think you’re on holiday—although admittedly, that might be due to Haney's location inside a youth hostel. It’s run by the people behind the much-loved Gulou institution Dali Renjia, and aside from a few missteps, their tradition of consistently good food at modest prices continues.

Décor matches the hostel surroundings with colorful photos of smiling minorities and plastic bamboo planters. It’s not especially charming, but we appreciate how spacious Haney is. You won’t be bumping elbows with other diners here.

Popular dishes include the Hani-fried potato balls (RMB22) accompanied by a fiery dipping sauce. The punishing flavors are so delicious, you’ll be double and triple-dipping to get every last drop. The fried Yunnan cheese (RMB35) isn’t as consistent as the garlicky slices over at Yun’er Town, but the portions are bigger. Just be sure to get them “zha” unless you fancy peas dumped all over your cheese.

The classic Yunnan dish, fried egg and jasmine flower (RMB25) is better than the insipid variations elsewhere. The jasmine scent is strong and the flowers not overly wilted. Eschew pineapple rice for the more exotic coconut rice (RMB25). It’s presented in a hollowed-out coconut, the sticky rice streaked with strips of sweet, fragrant coconut and boiled peanuts. But give the bland, gloopy curries a miss. They just aren’t up to standard.

Service is friendly enough, though a bit slow. It’s not a huge deal, however, if you’re willing to kick back with a bamboo carafe of mijiu (from RMB38) and hang out like a traveler with no particular place to go.

Our rating: 4/5 stars

DETAILS

What: Haney Restaurant

Where: Baochao Hotel, 107 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, 鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同107号宝钞饭店内

Tel: 6401-3318