How to feed a hungry diplomat: An old-fashioned Korean dinner with the U.S. ambassador

How to feed a hungry diplomat: An old-fashioned Korean dinner with the U.S. ambassador
U.S. Ambassador Sung Kim cares about more than just politics -- he's also a connoisseur of traditional cuisine
By Frances Cha
Ambassador Sung Kim U.S. Ambassador Sung Kim (far right), looking quite at home in his gopchang apron.
Even though they're aware of U.S. Ambassador Sung Kim's Korean background (he's ethnically Korean and was born in Seoul), most people don't know that Kim is bilingual -- probably because local television usually shows him speaking impassively about North Korea in English.
The 51-year-old career diplomat is also partial to Korean soul food, and has been happily rediscovering old haunts and new favorites when he finds snatches of time in between official duties.
Kim knows quite a few spots, some dating to an earlier posting at the U.S. Embassy in Korea from 2002-2006. He returned as ambassador in November 2011.
"One of the best parts about being ambassador to Korea is the food," he says emphatically. "Especially the simple, homey kind."

Where the ambassador eats

We're at a well-known kimchi-jjigae restaurant for dinner -- what better place to quiz Ambassador Kim about his favorite restaurants? -- a tiny joint called Jangho Wang Gopchang in Seodaemun, near Fraser Place.
Our party of seven squeezes around two small, worn aluminum tables. We're all wearing aprons -- pink for the women, blue stripes for the men.
Despite its ramshackle appearance, the restaurant is one of the most popular kimchi-jjigae places in the city.
Battalions of office workers usually start lining up around 11:30 a.m. for lunch (until 2 p.m.) and again during dinner hours.
"I like walking around this neighborhood -- I've seen the long lines at this place and always wondered what it was," says Kim.
The first round is gopchang -- chewy, juicy grilled beef intestines.
The silver-haired ambassador is taller and thinner than he looks on television and our party decides we need to fatten him up, so we tell the waitress to direct most of the intestines his way.
ambassador Sung Kim
Gopchang's kimchi-jjigae is legendary.

While the gopchang is delicious, the ambassador seems impatient.
"I'm really looking forward to the kimchi-jjigae," he says, rubbing his hands together. "The main event!"
When it finally comes, he makes sure to order more ramen sari.
"Kimchi-jjigae is just not the same without it," he says as he takes the ladle.
Ambassador Kim says his favorite Seoul restaurant is Gaetmaeul (갯마을), a mandu guk (dumpling soup) place in Ichon-dong.
"I am also very sentimental about this wonderful kalguksu place called Guksijip (국시집) in Sungbuk," he says.
He also recommends a pojangmacha in Itaewon called Budeulgol Story (버들골이야기) for its dubu kimchi.
While he loves to travel around the country, his trips are usually taken up with work. He plans to explore more in the near future.
He recently visited the Gangwon province, and recommends the Haslla Art World Museum Hotel in Gangneung.
"It's an interesting little boutique hotel that has a gallery and uses art concepts in its architecture," he says. "It was a fun visit. You should check it out."

Props to soju

ambassador Sung Kim
Waiting impatiently for the kimchi-jjigae.
When the waitress finally brings out the kimchi-jjigae, we clink soju glasses while sweating profusely over the steam.
"For Korean food, soju is the best," he says.
"I realize that the more I eat Korean food. I've grown quite fond of soju."
Guksijip (국시집); 9 Seungbuk-dong 1-ga, Seungbuk-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 성북구 성북동1가 9); +82 2 762 1924
Jangho Wang Gopchang (장호왕곱창); 6-16 Sunhwa-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 중구 순화동 6-16); +82 2 756 5070; www.janghoking.co.kr
Gaetmaeul (갯마을); 65-550 Hangang-ro 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 용산구 한강로2가 65-550); +82 2 795 2277
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